Tirana in January is colder than tourists expect. The city sits in a basin, and when the winds come down from Dajti in late afternoon, the temperature in the streets can drop several degrees in an hour. The wet cold that comes with the rain has a specific quality — it does not freeze the body the way the dry Liaoning winter of my childhood did, but it gets into the joints in a way that the dry cold did not. Long-term residents recognise it. New arrivals are usually surprised.
In our parlour, January and February are the two months when volcanic stone therapy bookings outpace everything else. It is not a coincidence. The treatment is specifically suited to the kind of chronic cold-pattern complaint that the Tirana winter produces, and the change clients experience after a session — and the cumulative change after several sessions — is more pronounced in winter than in any other season.
This piece is for the clients who come in with the specific complaint of “the cold has gotten into my bones” and want to know why the stones help when the heating pad at home does not.
What “cold in the bones” actually is
The phrase “cold in the bones” — acari në kocka, in Albanian — is one of the more linguistically accurate descriptions of a physiological state that modern medicine does not have a comparably elegant term for.
When the body is exposed to chronic cold and damp conditions, several things happen at the level of the joints, deep muscles, and connective tissue.
The synovial fluid in the joints becomes slightly more viscous. The fluid that lubricates the joint is sensitive to temperature; at lower temperatures, it flows less smoothly. This is part of why arthritic joints stiffen in cold weather.
The fascia surrounding the muscles loses some of its hydration and elasticity. Cold reduces local blood flow, which reduces the delivery of water and nutrients to the connective tissue. Over weeks of cold exposure, the fascia becomes detectably less pliable.
The deep paraspinal muscles, particularly those around the lower back and the back of the neck, enter a low-grade chronic contraction state. The contraction is protective — it preserves core temperature — but it accumulates tension over the winter.
The peripheral circulation, particularly in the hands and feet, becomes restricted. Even when the person is in a warm room, the small blood vessels in the periphery remain narrowed for some time after the cold exposure has ended.
All of these effects, in combination, produce the sensation of cold having “gotten into” the body in a way that no single warm shower can fully resolve. The body has shifted its baseline. Restoring the previous baseline takes more than transient warmth.
What the stones do that a heating pad does not
The instinct, when one has cold in the bones, is to apply heat. A hot bath, a heating pad on the lower back, an electric blanket overnight. These help. They help temporarily.
The therapeutic difference between this kind of surface heat and a volcanic stone session lies in three factors.
Depth of heat penetration. A hot bath warms the body’s surface and, over time, raises the core temperature slightly. A heating pad warms the area directly under it but the heat does not penetrate more than a centimetre or two into the tissue. Volcanic basalt, applied at the correct temperature (between 55 and 65 degrees Celsius) and moved correctly across the body, transfers heat to a depth of five to seven centimetres — reaching the deep paraspinal muscles, the deep hip rotators, the small muscles around the kidneys, and the periarticular tissues around the joints in a way that surface heat cannot.
Sustained working temperature. A heating pad cools as it transfers heat into the body and tends to be set at temperatures too high to be safe for prolonged contact (which is why most have automatic shut-offs). The basalt stones we use stay within the therapeutic range for fifteen to twenty minutes per stone, and we rotate through multiple stones to maintain even working temperature for the full session. The deep tissue receives sustained warming input rather than the rapid hot-cold-hot cycling of an electric pad.
Mechanical work combined with heat. The stones are not only static. A skilled volcanic stone session combines stationary placement (where stones rest on key points for several minutes) with active manipulation (where the stones glide along muscle groups and joint capsules). The combination of heat plus mechanical work addresses both the temperature and the postural-tension components of winter stiffness simultaneously. (For the foundational long-form guide to this technique — origin, variations, contraindications — see the volcanic stone massage guide.)
The Tirana protocol specifically
The volcanic stone work I do in winter differs in specific ways from the protocol used in summer or in other climates. The Tirana-specific adjustments include:
Longer pre-warming of the client. The client lies on a heated table for five to ten minutes before any stone is applied. This raises the surface temperature of the body so the first stone does not produce a startling temperature contrast that recruits the sympathetic nervous system.
More attention to the lumbar region. The lower back is where the wet-cold quality of the Tirana winter accumulates most consistently. We use a larger sacral stone for this region, and the stationary placement time is extended compared to the standard protocol.
Specific work on the hips and outer thighs. The lateral fascia from the iliotibial band to the outer hip becomes particularly tight in winter, and clients often do not notice this tightness until it is released. Stone work along this region in winter consistently produces a “lighter” sensation in walking afterwards.
Attention to the small joints of the hands. Tirana winter cold particularly affects the hands of people who spend time outdoors — walking dogs along Liqeni, commuting on foot, taking children to school. Small stones placed between the fingers and worked along the back of the hand produce significant relief.
Finishing with abdominal stones. Even when the primary complaint is musculoskeletal, finishing with stationary stones on the lower abdomen produces a general systemic warming effect that improves the overall therapeutic outcome.
What a typical winter client looks like
A representative client, from this past January: a woman in her late fifties, retired teacher, lives in a flat in central Tirana with adequate but not generous heating. She walks her grandson to school each morning. She has had mild osteoarthritis in her knees for several years that is generally manageable but flares up in winter to the point where she cannot kneel on the floor to play with the child. She had tried heating pads, knee braces, a magnesium supplement, and one course of physiotherapy that had not produced a substantial change.
She came in for a single ninety-minute volcanic stone session in early January. The protocol was the full winter version described above, with particular attention to the periarticular tissues of the knees.
She called the next day to say that she had slept through the night for the first time in three weeks and had been able to kneel that morning without pain.
This is, by itself, not a study. It is an anecdote. But it is a representative anecdote — the kind of report we hear consistently from winter clients with cold-pattern complaints. The single session produces noticeable improvement; the cumulative effect of several sessions across the winter produces something closer to the body’s normal baseline.
She continued coming once every two weeks through February and into early March. By the time she stopped (in part because the weather had warmed and her knees had stabilised), she had had six sessions across two months. Her knees stayed stable through the rest of the winter and the following spring.
The Liaoning observation
I cannot help observing, when I do this work in winter, the parallel with what my own family did in Liaoning when I was a child. We did not have basalt stones in our village. We had pieces of broken brick from old kilns, smoothed by time, that my grandmother kept in a wooden box near the stove. In the deepest weeks of January she would warm a stone in the stove embers (carefully — too hot would crack it), wrap it in cloth, and apply it to her own lower back or to my mother’s knees.
The principle was identical. The materials were what was locally available. The pattern — warm stone, applied to the lower back or joints, in the deep cold of winter — has been performed in some form in every cold-climate culture that has had access to dense stone and a way to heat it. The fact that we now do it in our parlour in Tirana with carefully sourced basalt and properly heated water does not change the underlying intervention. We have refined the precision; we have not changed the wisdom.
When to consider it, when not to
Volcanic stone therapy in winter is particularly useful for:
Chronic joint stiffness that worsens in cold weather (arthritis of the knees, hips, shoulders, fingers).
Lower back pain with a “cold and damp” quality — pain that responds to heat and worsens in damp weather.
Persistent cold extremities (cold hands, cold feet) that are not improving with the usual measures.
General fatigue and “the cold has gotten into me” feeling that does not lift with adequate sleep and warm clothing.
It is less useful for, or contraindicated in, the conditions listed in the main volcanic stone guide on the parlour website — particularly pregnancy, acute infection, uncontrolled cardiovascular disease, blood-thinning medication, and active DVT.
For winter use specifically, a series of three to six sessions across the cold months produces the most reliable lasting effect. A single session helps for one to two weeks; the cumulative effect builds over the series and produces a body that handles the winter more comfortably overall.
The treatment is, in its way, one of the older interventions for living in a cold climate — warm stone, patient hands, repeated through the worst of the season. In a Tirana January, when the cold comes down off Dajti and settles into the basin for weeks, this is not a small thing.
Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana.