What Mud Moxibustion Actually Looks Like in Practice

People often ask, when I describe mud moxibustion as one of our treatments, “But what does it actually look like?” The descriptions in the classical texts are precise about mechanism but not about the experience. The photographs on the internet are often staged. The reality, when you are lying on the table receiving it, is a particular and surprisingly low-drama experience that I think is worth describing in detail — because the gap between what people expect and what actually happens is large, and the actual experience is, for most clients, much more comfortable than they imagined.

This piece is the one I wish someone had given me to read before my first session, when I was a student in Liaoning and had only seen the treatment performed once. I want to walk you through the whole experience, from arrival to leaving the parlour, so that if you decide to book a session you know exactly what to expect.

Before you arrive

A few small things to do in the day or two before a session, which will improve the experience considerably.

Eat normally. Not on an empty stomach (the treatment is more comfortable with some food in the system), but also not immediately after a large meal. A light lunch one or two hours before an afternoon session is ideal.

Avoid alcohol the day before. The treatment produces vasodilation, and alcohol amplifies this in ways that can leave you slightly light-headed afterwards. Coffee in the morning is fine; coffee within an hour of the session can produce a mild jittery interaction with the relaxation effect, which is uncomfortable.

Wear clothes that you can change out of easily. We provide a treatment robe, but you will undress to the waist at minimum for an abdominal session, and possibly fully for a back session.

Bring a small bottle of water for after. The treatment is dehydrating, gently — your body will appreciate water at room temperature in the hour after the session.

Arriving at the parlour

The parlour is in central Tirana, a short walk from Bulevardi Myslym Shyri. Most clients walk over from somewhere nearby — a café, a meeting, the office. Some drive and park on a side street. There is a small front room where you remove your shoes and one of us welcomes you. If it is your first visit, we will have a longer conversation than usual; if you are a regular, the conversation can be as long or as short as you want.

For a mud moxibustion session specifically, the intake conversation matters more than for some other treatments. I will want to know:

The specific complaint, in your own words.

What it feels like to your own touch, when you press the area with your hand.

Whether warmth or cold makes it better or worse.

Where you are in your menstrual cycle, if you have one.

What you have tried already and what helped or did not help.

How you sleep, generally.

What your bowel pattern is like.

This last set of questions is, I know, less common than in a Western medical visit. The information matters because the treatment is going to address an underlying pattern, not just a single complaint, and the pattern is often visible only when several pieces of information are considered together.

Setting up

After the intake, you change in a private changing area and lie on the table. For an abdominal session, you will be on your back, with the lower abdomen and lower chest exposed. We cover the rest of you with a clean towel and an additional warm blanket — the body cools quickly once it is undressed, and a warm body responds better to the treatment than a cool one.

The room is kept warmer than ordinary spa temperature. Around twenty-three or twenty-four degrees Celsius. There is soft natural light, no overhead fluorescent. A small piece of music plays at low volume; if you prefer silence, we turn it off.

I prepare the mud cake in the next room. The cake is warmed gently — never hot enough to burn, around forty to forty-two degrees Celsius — and lightly moistened with warm water and a drop of essential oil. The texture, when ready, is like a slightly stiff but warm and pliable dough.

I bring it to the treatment room and lay it over the area we have agreed to treat. For an abdominal session, the cake covers a band from just below the navel to just above the pubic bone, about fifteen centimetres wide and twenty long. The weight of the cake itself — usually about three hundred grams — is part of the therapeutic effect. The pressure is mild and even, and most clients find it immediately pleasant.

The moxa

Above the mud cake, I light a small bundle of moxa — dried Artemisia vulgaris — and hold it at a controlled distance above the mud. The moxa burns slowly, like incense, producing a steady stream of warm air and aromatic smoke that descends through the mud to the skin and into the underlying tissue.

The smoke is mild and has a characteristic herbal smell — slightly like burning sage, slightly like dry hay, slightly like nothing else. Most clients find it pleasant. If anyone is sensitive to smoke or smells, we use a smokeless variation of moxa that produces nearly all the therapeutic effect with much less aromatic intensity.

I monitor the temperature constantly during the session. The mud surface should be warm to the touch; the underlying skin should feel pleasant warmth, not heat. If at any point you feel the temperature is too hot, we adjust immediately. The protocol of “more is better” does not apply here — the right temperature is a comfortable warmth, not an intense heat.

The first twenty minutes

For most clients, the first twenty minutes of the session involve a kind of slow settling. The body registers the warmth, the breathing deepens slightly, the shoulders drop into the table. Many clients begin to feel sleepy by the ten-minute mark.

You may notice subtle sensations during this period. A slight warmth radiating from the treatment area outward through the body. Sometimes a feeling of increased peristalsis — small gurgling movements in the digestive tract that are normal and indicate the parasympathetic system is engaging. Sometimes a brief, mild sensation of emotional release, particularly in clients who have been holding stress in the lower abdomen.

You do not need to do anything during this period. There is no special breathing technique, no meditation to maintain, no posture to hold. You simply lie there and let the warmth work.

The second twenty minutes

By the half-hour mark, most clients have entered a kind of light sleep. The breathing has slowed, the muscles have softened completely, the body has accepted the warmth as a stable presence and is no longer reacting to it actively. This is the deep working part of the session.

I am still present in the room during this time, monitoring the moxa, occasionally repositioning my hand to keep the heat even, sometimes adding a fresh moxa bundle as the previous one burns down. Some clients open their eyes occasionally; most do not.

This is the part of the session where, in my experience, most of the long-term effect is generated. The body has settled into a different state of regulation. The autonomic nervous system has shifted into parasympathetic dominance. The deep tissue is receiving a sustained warming input that it does not get in ordinary daily life.

The end of the session

At about the forty-minute mark, I remove the moxa, gently lift the mud cake, and clean the treatment area with warm towels. The skin underneath will be pleasantly pink and warm to the touch. Sometimes there is a faint herbal scent on the skin that persists for an hour or two.

You are not asked to get up immediately. We leave you on the table, covered with a warm blanket, for five or ten minutes. This recovery period matters — getting up too quickly produces light-headedness in some clients.

When you are ready, you change back into your clothes, and we have a brief conversation in the front room about how you are feeling. You should drink water. Some clients want a small cup of warm tea — we usually have çaj mali available in winter, regular green tea in summer.

You are then free to go. The post-session feeling, for most clients, is a kind of deep ease — slightly slowed-down, warm, settled. The full therapeutic effect builds in the days that follow. The night of sleep after a session is, for many clients, the deepest they will have had in some time.

A few honest notes

There are clients for whom mud moxibustion is not the right treatment. Pregnant women, anyone with a fever or acute infection, anyone with significant cardiovascular instability. We screen for these at intake.

There are clients who do not respond to it. This is unusual but it happens. If after three sessions there has been no change, I tell them so, and we discuss whether the underlying pattern was correctly identified or whether a different treatment would serve them better.

There is also a small group of clients who experience what we call a healing reaction — a temporary intensification of symptoms in the day or two after the first session before improvement begins. This is unsettling if you do not expect it, which is why I mention it at intake. It does not happen often, but when it does, it is not a problem; it is a sign that something is shifting.

The treatment is gentle, slow, and quiet. It does not produce dramatic immediate results. What it does — when applied to the right pattern, in the right way, with patience — is help the body return to a deep baseline state of warmth and regulation that it has lost.

That is the work.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana.

Couples Massage Is Not What Movies Show — A Practical Guide

There is a particular image of couples massage in popular culture that bears almost no resemblance to what the experience actually is. The image involves rose petals on the table, candles arranged in clusters, soft jazz, two glasses of champagne waiting for the end of the session, and a kind of glamorous romantic intimacy that exists more in advertising than in any real spa I have visited or worked in.

The reality is simultaneously more ordinary and more interesting. Two people in the same room, on two tables, receiving professional bodywork in parallel. The room is warm, comfortable, well-lit but not bright. There is no champagne; most couples here would rather have a strong coffee afterwards anyway. The therapists are present and focused. The couple, depending on their preference, either talks quietly during the early part of the session or remains silent throughout. There are no rose petals.

The interesting part is what the shared experience actually does for the couple, which is often different from what people expect when they book the session for the first time. This piece is for couples considering booking a session and trying to figure out what to expect, and for anyone receiving the session as a gift and wondering what they have signed up for. (There is an earlier short piece, a growing trend in Tirana — couples discovering Chinese massage together, which sketches the broader context.)

What it is, and what it is not

A couples massage at our parlour is two simultaneous individual sessions performed in the same room by two therapists. The therapists work independently of each other — this is not four-hands work, where the therapists coordinate. Each therapist focuses on their own client. The clients are next to each other but are receiving separate treatments.

The choices we make about pressure, technique, and protocol are determined individually for each client at intake. If one partner wants firm pressure on a specific complaint and the other wants gentle relaxation work, we deliver these different sessions in parallel. The fact of being in the same room does not require the two sessions to be identical.

What couples massage is not: a romantic experience designed to produce intimacy. Romance is the client’s business, not ours. We provide professional bodywork. If the shared experience produces a quality of connection between the partners, that is welcome, but we do not engineer it. Our job is to deliver excellent sessions to each person on the table.

What couples massage is also not: a discount for booking two. The pricing reflects the use of two simultaneous therapists and the dedicated room. We do not offer a discount for the couples format. If price is the deciding factor, two separate single-therapist sessions on the same day are often more economical.

Why people book it

There are several reasons couples choose this format over individual sessions, and the reasons matter because they affect what kind of session is most appropriate.

Convenience. The couple has a single window of time available — a Sunday afternoon, a weekend in Tirana, a wedding anniversary on a specific evening — and they want to share the experience rather than each go separately. The couples session lets them book one appointment instead of two.

Comfort with the unfamiliar. One partner has never had a professional massage and is nervous about the experience. Having the other partner in the room reduces the anxiety considerably. We see this frequently — a partner who has been getting regular sessions for years brings the other partner in for the first time, and the shared format makes the introduction much smoother.

Shared rhythm. Some couples have built a regular practice of receiving sessions together as part of their ongoing relationship. The shared time is a touchstone in the week or month. They have decided, deliberately, that the parallel experience is part of how they care for themselves together.

Special occasions. Anniversaries, birthdays, milestones in the relationship. The session marks an event in a particular way that individual sessions would not.

Discharge after travel. A couple has just arrived in Tirana — sometimes from abroad, sometimes after a difficult drive — and wants to recover together before the rest of their trip begins.

The booking pattern that works less well, in my experience, is the booking pattern that approaches the session as a substitute for difficult conversation or accumulated relationship tension. The session itself cannot resolve relationship strain. It can sometimes create conditions in which strain becomes more workable, but it is not a therapeutic intervention for relationships. We are massage therapists, not couples counsellors.

The intake conversation

The intake before a couples session is slightly different from the intake before an individual session. We ask each partner the same questions we would ask any individual client — about their physical complaints, their history with massage, their preferences for pressure and technique — but we do these intakes separately. Each partner has their own brief private conversation with their therapist before the session begins.

The reason for the separate intakes is practical. People are sometimes reluctant to mention certain things in front of their partner. A specific medical condition they have not yet disclosed. A particular area of pain they prefer not to discuss. A psychological context (recent grief, anxiety about something) that they would rather their therapist know about quietly. The separate intakes allow each client to give us the full information we need without performing it for the partner.

The therapists then briefly coordinate between themselves before the session begins, agreeing on the overall rhythm and ambient temperature and which protocols each will use. The clients lie on their tables. The session begins.

The early minutes

The first minutes of a couples session have a particular quality that is different from individual sessions. Both clients are slightly aware of the other’s presence. The room has more sensory input than a single-client room would. There is a small ongoing recalibration as each partner registers that the other is also being attended to.

For many couples, this awareness gradually fades over the first ten to fifteen minutes. The partners settle into their own experiences. By the twenty-minute mark, most couples have entered what is essentially a parallel rather than shared experience — they are both receiving sessions in the same physical space, but their attention has turned inward.

For some couples, the awareness of the other persists throughout the session and is actually part of what they value about the format. They like knowing that the other is also being cared for at the same time. The parallel experience, even without explicit interaction, has a quality of shared time that they appreciate.

Neither pattern is more correct. The session works either way.

A small parlour observation

I have been doing this work for many years, and I have observed an interesting pattern in couples sessions that I do not entirely have an explanation for.

Couples who have been together for more than five or six years tend to develop a kind of breathing synchronisation during a couples session that does not happen in individual sessions. About twenty minutes in, the breathing patterns of the two partners begin to align. They are not visible to the partners themselves — neither of them is consciously coordinating — but if I watch the rise and fall of both chests, I can usually see the synchronisation begin to emerge around the twenty-minute mark.

This is not, as far as I can tell, the same phenomenon as the breath-matching that occurs between trained therapy partners (which I described in a piece about four-hands work). The therapist breath-matching is the result of deliberate training. The couple breath-matching seems to emerge spontaneously, perhaps because the partners’ nervous systems have, over years of intimate cohabitation, developed an unconscious responsiveness to each other.

I have begun, when I notice this happening, to think of it as evidence that the relationship is in a state of basic regulation. The two nervous systems are speaking to each other quietly. The session is providing the conditions in which this normally invisible communication becomes briefly observable.

When the synchronisation does not happen — which is rare, but it occurs — it sometimes points to a couple that is going through a more difficult period. I do not comment on this to the clients. It is not my business and might be misleading anyway. But it is, for me, one of the small interesting features of the work.

What to expect afterwards

The post-session experience for couples is often slightly different from individual sessions in one specific way: many couples report that the conversations they have in the hour after the session have a different quality than usual.

The parasympathetic state produced by the session shifts the nervous system into a more open, less defended mode. Combined with the shared experience just completed, this often makes whatever conversation arises between the partners more relaxed, more honest, less reactive. Couples often go out for a meal afterwards and find that the conversation flows easily, that small irritations from the past week feel less important, that they can talk about something that has been weighing on them without it becoming a problem.

This is not the session’s purpose. It is a useful side effect.

The effect is usually best preserved by not planning an immediate high-stimulation activity after the session. A quiet meal at a small restaurant near the parlour, a walk, an unhurried afternoon — these honour the post-session state. A loud event, a difficult social situation, a stressful conversation — these tend to override the effect quickly.

When this is the right choice

A couples massage session is particularly appropriate when:

The two partners both want a professional bodywork session and find it more pleasant to share the timing.

One partner is new to massage and the other’s presence helps with comfort.

The relationship has a regular self-care rhythm and the session fits into it as part of the broader pattern.

A special occasion calls for a shared experience that is not strictly romantic in the conventional sense.

It is a less appropriate choice when:

The partners have significantly different bodywork needs that would be better served by different therapists or different types of sessions.

One partner wants to discuss their physical complaints in detail and the other partner does not want to hear about them.

The relationship is in a stressed period and the session is being booked as an attempt to repair the strain.

The booking is being made primarily for the romantic-package aesthetics rather than for the therapeutic value.

For couples who have not yet tried it, my honest recommendation is to come once, see what the actual experience is like, and decide afterwards whether the format suits you. Some couples discover that they prefer it. Others discover they prefer individual sessions. Either answer is fine, and the discovery is the value of the first try.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana. The parlour is in central Tirana, near Bulevardi Gjergj Fishta.

Cupping for Frozen Shoulder: A Tirana Story

Mira had been told that her frozen shoulder would either resolve on its own in two years, or not. She was eighteen months into the two years when she came to see me. She could no longer reach behind her back to fasten a bra. She could not lift her right arm above shoulder height. She had stopped wearing the watch her late husband had given her because she could not work the clasp.

She was fifty-three. She had been a nurse for thirty-one years, recently retired, and the irony of being a healthcare professional whose own body was failing in a way no medical intervention was solving was not lost on her. She had been to a physiotherapist twice weekly for nine months. She had received two corticosteroid injections into the shoulder joint. She had done all the exercises. She had been told that frozen shoulder follows its own timeline and that patience is the main treatment.

“I do not have a problem with patience,” she told me. “I have a problem with the dressing of myself.”

I told her that what she had described — capsulite rétractile, adhesive capsulitis, frozen shoulder — was one of the more frustrating conditions in medicine because the conventional treatments only partially work, and the natural history is genuinely long. But I also told her there was a particular sequence of cupping and gua sha interventions that often shortens the timeline considerably, particularly when combined with the work she was already doing in physiotherapy. We could try it for six sessions and see.

She agreed. The shoulder, after all, had nothing to lose.

What frozen shoulder actually is

The shoulder joint is the most mobile joint in the body. This mobility comes from a complex arrangement of muscles, tendons, and a thin capsule of connective tissue that surrounds the ball-and-socket joint itself. In a healthy shoulder, this capsule is loose enough to allow the wide range of arm motion that characterises human movement.

In frozen shoulder, for reasons that are still incompletely understood, this capsule thickens, becomes inflamed, and shrinks. Movements that should be effortless become impossible. The condition typically progresses through three stages: the painful “freezing” stage (when the capsule is actively inflaming and the shoulder hurts intensely), the “frozen” stage (when the pain decreases but the stiffness remains and reaches its peak), and the “thawing” stage (when the capsule slowly relaxes and motion returns).

The whole process, untreated, lasts between eighteen months and three years. Two-thirds of patients recover full motion. The other third are left with some permanent restriction.

The conditions that predispose to frozen shoulder are reasonably well-known: diabetes, thyroid dysfunction, immobility after another shoulder injury, hormonal changes around menopause, and a previously underappreciated factor — chronic generalised inflammation. But the precise trigger in any given case is usually not identifiable.

Why cupping is particularly useful for this condition

The capsule of the shoulder joint is not directly accessible to manual therapy in the way more superficial structures are. It sits deep, under multiple layers of muscle. Direct manipulation requires either surgery (capsular release) or an injection.

But the surrounding tissue — the deltoid, the rotator cuff muscles, the upper trapezius, the muscles around the scapula — is accessible, and the state of this surrounding tissue significantly affects the capsule. When the surrounding muscles are tight, congested, and inflamed, they pull on the capsule, restrict its blood supply, and prolong its inflammatory state. When the surrounding tissue is supple, well-circulated, and properly hydrated, the capsule can resolve its own inflammation more quickly.

This is where cupping becomes particularly useful. The negative pressure of the cups, applied systematically to the shoulder region, accomplishes several things at once.

First, it produces a pronounced increase in local blood flow that lasts not just for the duration of the treatment but for several days afterwards. This brings inflammation-clearing immune cells and oxygenated blood to the area in a way that ordinary massage cannot match.

Second, it lifts the fascial layers — the thin sheets of connective tissue that hold the muscle groups in their relative positions. In a frozen shoulder, these layers tend to become adhesive to each other, gluing the structures together in ways that restrict motion. The vertical lift of a cup mechanically separates these layers in a way that thumb pressure cannot replicate.

Third — and this is the part most clients find surprising — it seems to quieten the underlying inflammation in the whole shoulder region, including the deep capsule itself. I do not pretend to understand the exact mechanism. What I see in practice is consistent: cupping sessions on the shoulder, performed weekly, seem to shorten how long the frozen shoulder takes to resolve, sometimes by months. (I have an earlier piece, Suela’s acupuncture story for shoulder pain, describing the same complaint approached through needles instead of cups.)

The protocol I used with Mira

We did six sessions across eight weeks. Each session included cupping on the affected shoulder and the surrounding regions, with the cups left in place for ten to twelve minutes; gua sha along specific muscle attachments around the scapula; and at the end of each session, fifteen minutes of acupuncture on points distant from the shoulder, designed to address the underlying inflammatory pattern.

We did not work the shoulder joint directly, in the sense of forcing motion. The mistake that prolongs frozen shoulder is the assumption that aggressive stretching helps. It does not. The capsule responds to aggressive stretching by inflaming further. The work in our parlour was about creating the conditions in which the capsule could relax on its own — and trusting that it would, once those conditions were established.

Between sessions, Mira continued her physiotherapy. Her physiotherapist was excellent and the exercises she was doing were appropriate. What we added was the regulatory work on the surrounding tissue that physiotherapy alone could not produce.

The arc of recovery

First session: no immediate change in motion. Significant cupping marks on the shoulder, fading over five days. Mira reported that the pain at night — which had been waking her — was reduced for the first two nights after the session, then returned.

Second session: night pain reduction persisted longer, about four nights. Range of motion still essentially unchanged.

Third session: small but noticeable change. Mira reported that she could reach about two centimetres higher behind her back than the previous week, which had not happened in months.

Fourth and fifth sessions: more consistent gains. Pain at night reduced significantly. Range of motion increasing about two to three centimetres each week.

Sixth session: substantial change. Mira could reach behind her back to the level of her bra strap (she could not fasten it yet, but she could reach it). She could lift her arm to shoulder height. She had begun to wear her watch again, fastening it with assistance.

We stopped formal treatment at six sessions. She continued physiotherapy. She returned for a maintenance session at three months. By then she had full range of motion. The shoulder had completed its thawing about six months earlier than her physiotherapist had originally estimated.

A patience that Skanderbeg would have understood

There is a quality the body needs from someone with frozen shoulder, and that someone is rarely the patient themselves. The condition tests the patient’s patience constantly. The pain is real, the disability is real, the timeline is real, and the temptation to either give up or push too hard is constant.

I sometimes mention to clients with frozen shoulder that the historical figure who comes to mind for me is Skanderbeg — not for the obvious reason of perseverance, but for a specific quality of his resistance: he did not waste his strength on every confrontation. He chose which battles to fight and which positions to hold and which to yield strategically. The frozen shoulder responds to the same kind of selective patience. Aggressive intervention loses ground. Quiet, sustained, well-chosen intervention wins.

Mira called me about a year after we finished her course of treatment. She wanted to tell me she had bought a new dress with a back zipper, and she had fastened it herself.

This is the part of the work I love most. The slow returns, the quiet phone calls, the things people can do again that they had stopped expecting to do.

When to consider this approach

If you have frozen shoulder — confirmed by your doctor, ideally with imaging to rule out other causes — and you have been progressing slowly with conventional treatment, a course of cupping and gua sha is worth considering. The treatment is most useful in the late freezing phase and the frozen phase; it appears to be less useful in the early acute phase (when the inflammation is at its peak and any additional stimulation is unwelcome) and unnecessary in the late thawing phase (when the condition is already resolving on its own).

A typical course is six sessions across six to eight weeks. About three-quarters of my clients with this condition see meaningful improvement in this timeframe. The other quarter need a different approach or a longer treatment course.

The work does not replace physiotherapy. It complements it. The two together are, in my experience, dramatically more effective than either alone.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana. The parlour is in central Tirana, a short walk from Bulevardi Myslym Shyri. Names in client stories have been changed.

Pregnancy massage. Gentle, careful, and worth it.

A friend walked in one afternoon at about twenty-two weeks. She had been sleeping badly for a month — not from worry, just from the simple fact that the body she had lived in for thirty-something years had quietly rearranged itself around another person, and no position felt quite right anymore. She sat down, listed her usual complaints — the pull along the lower side, the shoulders that had crept up toward her ears — and then added, almost as an afterthought: “But I suppose there’s not much you can do, is there?”

There is quite a lot, actually. Pregnancy massage is one of the more nuanced things we do, and it is worth explaining what makes it different and why that difference matters.

Why it is not the same as a regular massage

The short answer is: the body has changed, so the approach must change with it. Circulation is working harder than usual. Certain pressure points that ordinarily speed up circulation or stimulate the uterus are avoided entirely in the first trimester and used with great care thereafter — in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), these include specific points on the lower leg and ankle that are powerful precisely because pregnancy is not the right moment for that kind of stimulation. Positioning changes completely: after the first trimester we work with the mother on her side, supported by bolsters, never flat on her stomach and almost never flat on her back for extended periods. The pressure is lighter in some areas, firmer where chronic tension has built up — the upper back, the area between the shoulder blades, the base of the skull.

None of this makes the massage timid. It makes it precise.

What the mother gains

The most immediate thing most mothers notice is sleep. Not dramatic, just — better. The nervous system has been running at a higher baseline; one hour of steady, attentive, warm hands brings it down. Cortisol drops. The shoulders finally remember how to hang. Swelling in the legs and ankles, a near-universal complaint from the second trimester onward, eases as circulation moves more freely through tissue that has been under extra pressure.

There is also something less measurable: the feeling of being attended to. Pregnancy puts a great deal of attention on the baby — rightly so — but the mother’s body is doing extraordinary, invisible work, and an hour of quiet acknowledgement of that work is not a luxury. It is maintenance.

What reaches the baby

This is where TCM has always been quietly ahead. When the mother’s nervous system settles — heart rate slower, breathing longer, muscles letting go — the baby feels exactly that. Cortisol is shared; so is calm. Research in perinatal care has been confirming for decades what traditional Chinese practitioners took as given: a relaxed mother creates a gentler environment for the child developing inside her. There is nothing mystical about it. The baby is living in the mother’s body. The mother’s state is the baby’s immediate world.

Some mothers also notice that the baby moves differently during or after a session — quieter during, a little livelier after, as if responding to the shift in the room.

When a partner joins: the couple session

This is the part I find myself recommending more and more. A couple massage during pregnancy is not simply two people having massages in the same room — though that is pleasant enough. It is something bigger than that.

The partner is also navigating a change they cannot feel directly. They are watching, supporting, sometimes not quite sure what to do. Being present for a massage session — receiving their own treatment while their partner does the same, in the same room, at the same pace — is a physical way of saying we are in this together. Many couples tell me afterward that the quiet of the room, the parallel experience, opened something between them. Not words. Just presence.

But there is another layer that I think matters just as much. This is not only a couple experience — it is the beginning of a family one. The baby is already there, already part of the room, already part of the equation. When both parents arrive together, rest together, and let their nervous systems slow down in the same space, they are doing something quietly profound: they are practising, as a family, what calm looks like. The baby, living inside the mother’s body, is part of that moment. It is an early form of bonding — not symbolic, but physiological.

The benefits deepen for the mother, too. There is something specifically calming about receiving care alongside someone who loves you. The nervous system knows the difference.

A few honest notes on timing and limits

Pregnancy massage is generally considered safe from the second trimester onward; in the first trimester, when the risk of miscarriage is highest and the body is undergoing its most rapid changes, we take extra care and prefer to wait unless the mother’s doctor has specifically said otherwise. If there is a history of preterm labour, placenta praevia, or any pregnancy complication, we ask to know first — not to refuse, but to adapt. And if anything feels wrong at any point during the session, we stop.

It is also worth saying: this is not medical care. It is skilled supportive care. For any concern, your obstetrician is the right person.

We have written a fuller practical guide — covering positions, trimester-by-trimester detail, and what to tell your therapist before you arrive — in our piece on pregnancy massage: what you need to know before you book.

You can read more about how the therapeutic massage works on the Therapeutic Massage (Tui Na) page.

Yang Wang practises therapeutic massage and acupuncture at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana. The parlour is in central Tirana, a short walk from Bulevardi Myslym Shyri. Names in client stories have been changed.

Volcanic Stone Massage for Fibromyalgia: 8 Sessions

Alma came to me in the spring after spending the winter unable to leave her apartment for more than short errands. She was forty-four. She had been diagnosed with fibromyalgia six years earlier, after a process of medical investigation that had taken nearly three years and had cost her — financially and emotionally — far more than the diagnosis was worth. By the time she had a name for what was happening to her body, she had stopped trusting that any name would help.

She had tried the standard medications: pregabalin, duloxetine, low-dose amitriptyline. They had taken some edge off the pain at the cost of side effects she found difficult to live with. She had tried physiotherapy, which had been worse than nothing — the standard graded-exercise protocol had triggered week-long flares each time the dose was increased. She had tried cognitive behavioural therapy, which had helped her cope but had not changed the underlying experience. She had tried alternative medicine practitioners of various qualifications, with results that ranged from neutral to mildly harmful.

When she sat across from me at the intake conversation, she was not optimistic. She had been told by a friend that volcanic stone work had helped her cousin’s fibromyalgia, and she had decided to try it more out of a sense that she should keep trying things than out of any real expectation.

I told her, honestly, that fibromyalgia is one of the harder conditions to treat with any intervention, that I had clients who had benefited substantially from volcanic stone work and clients who had not, and that we would need to do at least four sessions before we could meaningfully assess whether this approach was going to help her. If it was not, we would stop.

She agreed. We began.

What I have come to understand about fibromyalgia

Fibromyalgia is a condition I have spent a lot of time trying to understand, because I see clients with it often and the experience they describe is real and difficult. From what I have read, and from what doctors I trust have told me, the picture is roughly this. Patients have widespread pain — usually lasting more than a year and a half, across many parts of the body — together with fatigue, broken sleep, a foggy quality of thinking, and often other complaints like sensitive digestion, sensitivity to sound or light, and frequent headaches. The pattern is recognisable but the cause is not simple.

For a long time, doctors went back and forth on whether the condition was psychological or physical. The current understanding, as I have come across it, is that fibromyalgia is about how the nervous system processes pain signals, rather than about damage in any one part of the body. The pain is real. It is not imagined. But the source of it is in how the brain and spinal cord are reading signals from the body, rather than in any tear or inflammation that an MRI could photograph.

This way of understanding fibromyalgia matters for treatment. Pushing harder on the body — deep pressure, forceful stretching, anything aggressive — tends not to help and can make things worse. What seems to help, in the clients I have seen, is whatever calms the nervous system down: gentle bodywork, careful breathing, certain medicines (for the doctor to decide), and exercise dosed very slowly. Pushing through pain is not the path.

Volcanic stone therapy, in clients who respond well to it, seems to work as one of the calming approaches. The heat is deeply soothing without needing pressure. The session is a long quiet stretch of rest in a state the nervous system has often forgotten. Across several sessions, the body’s baseline of alarm seems to come down. (For readers new to the stone-therapy tradition more generally, I have a longer foundational piece, the volcanic stone massage guide, that covers origin, variations, and contraindications.)

Why stone work specifically, and not other massage

Several characteristics of stone work make it particularly suited to fibromyalgia, compared to other massage modalities.

First, the pressure can be light without losing therapeutic effect. The heat itself does much of the work. A skilled stone therapist can produce significant tissue change with pressure that would be insufficient in any other massage modality. For fibromyalgia patients, who often cannot tolerate moderate to deep pressure, this is essential.

Second, the heat penetrates deeply without requiring deep mechanical pressure. The therapeutic warmth reaches the deep paraspinal muscles, the periarticular tissues, and the small joint capsules without the therapist needing to apply force to those structures. This is the opposite of the “deep tissue” approach, and for fibromyalgia patients it is much more useful.

Third, the predictability of the experience helps the nervous system settle. Fibromyalgia patients often have hypervigilant nervous systems that scan continuously for the next painful input. The slow, predictable rhythm of stone work allows the nervous system to lower its guard. This effect is amplified across multiple sessions as the body learns that this particular treatment is reliably safe.

Fourth, the sustained warm-weighted contact of placement stones (on the sacrum, between the shoulders, in the palms) produces a deep proprioceptive grounding effect that fibromyalgia patients often report as profoundly relieving. The experience of feeling consistently safe and supported in their own body is, for many, rare and valuable.

The first four sessions

The first session with Alma was deliberately conservative. I used cooler stones than my usual setting — 54 degrees Celsius rather than 58 — and a lighter pressure than standard. The session was 90 minutes. We talked very little. I watched her body carefully throughout.

She had what I would describe as a “guarded” response in the first 30 minutes. Her shoulders did not fully drop. Her breathing remained shallow. She was, I could tell, holding herself slightly braced against the possibility that the work might hurt her — even though it was not hurting her. This is common in fibromyalgia patients in their first session. Their nervous system has been amplifying pain for so long that any new input is treated as a potential threat.

By the 45-minute mark, the bracing began to release. Her breathing deepened. The small muscles around her eyes softened. By the end of the session, she was visibly more relaxed than she had been at intake.

She called me the next day to say that she had slept the night before — seven continuous hours, for the first time in many months. The pain levels had been similar to her baseline, but the sleep had been transformative.

The second session, two weeks later, followed the same protocol with slight refinements. The bracing in the first 30 minutes was less. By the end of the session, she was lightly asleep.

The third session, the deeper integration began. I added gentle work on the cranium and face at the end of the session. Alma reported afterwards that she felt “lighter” in a way she could not specifically describe.

The fourth session was the inflection point. She arrived saying that the week between the third and fourth sessions had been the first week in years where she had not had a significant pain flare. The baseline was still present, but the amplifications had not happened.

This is the point at which I told her that I thought we should continue.

The next four sessions, and what changed

Sessions five through eight were spaced at two-week intervals, then three-week intervals. The work itself did not change dramatically; the protocol had been refined to what was working, and we continued in that direction.

What changed was Alma’s life around the sessions.

She began sleeping more reliably. The improvement was gradual but steady. By the seventh session, she was averaging six to seven hours of continuous sleep most nights.

Her pain levels reduced. Not eliminated — fibromyalgia rarely fully resolves — but the baseline shifted downward. She reported being able to do household tasks without then needing to lie down for the rest of the day. She began walking, slowly and not for long, in her neighbourhood.

The “fibro fog” lifted somewhat. She was able to read books again, which she had not done meaningfully for several years.

She began coming with her own questions about her body rather than the resigned posture of accepting whatever I might say. This shift — from passive recipient to active participant in her own care — is one of the most important markers of progress in fibromyalgia treatment.

By the eighth session, three months after we had begun, Alma was a different person from the woman who had walked into my office in March. The fibromyalgia had not gone away. But she had a life again.

Mamica Kastrioti’s kind of work

I think often, when working with fibromyalgia patients, of Mamica Kastrioti — Skanderbeg’s sister, whose composure under sustained difficulty is one of the qualities I find most admirable in Albanian historical figures. She held what she held without making noise about it. She did not break. She did not become bitter. She continued, in her own way, with the work that was hers to do.

Fibromyalgia patients carry something similar. The pain is constant. The fatigue is constant. The social misunderstanding — the family members and colleagues who do not believe the condition is real, who think it is exaggeration, who suggest you simply need to try harder — is often as exhausting as the physical symptoms. The patients who manage this with grace do so because they have developed a particular quiet strength that does not advertise itself.

Part of what I want this work to offer them is recognition. Recognition that what they are experiencing is real. Recognition that their endurance is honourable. Recognition that something can be done, slowly and carefully, that will reduce the load they are carrying.

The volcanic stones, in this work, are partly the tool and partly the gesture. The warmth they deliver is the warmth the body needs. The slowness of the session is the pace at which fibromyalgia must be addressed. The predictability of the protocol is what the hypervigilant nervous system can finally trust.

A note for fibromyalgia patients considering this

If you have fibromyalgia and have not yet tried volcanic stone therapy, here is what I would suggest:

Find a practitioner experienced with chronic pain conditions, not just any massage therapist. The work needs to be lighter, slower, and more carefully monitored than standard volcanic stone protocols.

Commit to at least four sessions, ideally six, before deciding whether it is helping. The cumulative effect builds; the first session often produces only modest changes.

Be honest with the practitioner about your pain levels, your medications, your other treatments, and any flares you have had recently. Adjustments to the protocol depend on accurate information.

If a session produces a worsening of symptoms for more than a day, communicate this. The pressure or temperature was too much. The next session should be adjusted.

Realistic expectation: meaningful reduction in pain, fatigue, and sleep disturbance, sustained across the weeks between sessions, with cumulative improvement across a course of treatment. Not a cure. Not the elimination of fibromyalgia. But a substantial improvement in daily life.

For Alma, after eight sessions, that has been enough. She continues to come for maintenance once every six weeks. She has built a life around her condition that allows her to do most of what she wants to do. The fibromyalgia is part of her, still. But it is no longer the entirety of her.

This is the work, in this kind of case. It is patient. The results are slow. They are also real.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana. Names in client stories have been changed.

The Olympic Athlete Marks: What Those Circles on Michael

In the summer of 2016, during the Olympic Games in Rio, photographs of Michael Phelps emerged that showed circular reddish-purple marks across his back and shoulders. The marks were striking — perfectly round, evenly spaced, dark enough to be noticed from across the pool deck. International media, including outlets that had never previously discussed traditional Chinese medicine, devoted considerable airtime to explaining what cupping was and why an Olympic swimmer would be using it.

This was a strange moment in the public history of the technique. Cupping had been practised continuously somewhere in the world for at least three thousand years, with documented use in ancient Egypt (1550 BCE), in classical Greece and Rome (where Hippocrates described it in detail), in Islamic medicine (where the practice was called hijama and was integrated into religious tradition), in Eastern European folk medicine, in Chinese medicine, and across nearly every other regional tradition. In none of these regions did the public consider cupping exotic. It was simply a thing one did when one had certain complaints.

What 2016 demonstrated was that cupping had become, in Western metropolitan settings, sufficiently obscure that an Olympic swimmer using it counted as news. The technique had not gone away; it had simply migrated out of mainstream Western awareness during the twentieth century, even as it continued in other parts of the world without interruption.

This piece is for clients who arrive at our parlour with some awareness that cupping is “an Olympic thing” but who have not encountered the much longer history the technique sits within — three thousand years of people reaching for a cup long before there was a podium to photograph it on.

What is actually happening under the cup

The mechanism is less mysterious than the dark circles make it look. A cup is placed against the skin and a vacuum is created inside it — historically with a brief flame that heats and then cools the trapped air, in our parlour with a small hand pump that does the job more precisely. The lower pressure inside the cup draws the skin and the soft tissue just beneath it gently upward.

That simple lift does several useful things. It pulls capillaries toward the surface and opens local blood flow in a way that lasts for days, not just for the minutes the cup is in place. It separates the thin fascial layers that hold the muscle groups in position — the same layers that, when they grow sticky and congested, quietly restrict movement. And it asks the body to pay attention to the area: to send blood, to clear what has accumulated, to do its housekeeping in a spot that has been neglected.

None of this requires belief. It is mechanics — pressure, circulation, and the body’s own response to being told, politely but firmly, that a particular patch of back needs looking after.

What cupping does for athletic performance

The reason elite athletes have adopted cupping as part of their training preparation is that the technique has measurable effects on muscle recovery that are difficult to achieve through other means.

After hard training, muscle tissue is left with several states that impair the next session: micro-damage to the muscle fibres themselves, accumulation of metabolic waste products, local inflammation, and reduced blood flow in the deeper layers. Standard recovery techniques — stretching, ice baths, foam rolling, massage — address some of these factors but not all.

Cupping addresses the accumulated stagnation in a way no other technique replicates. The negative pressure pulls capillaries open and increases local blood flow for several days after the treatment, which accelerates the clearing of metabolic waste. The lift of the fascial layers — the same effect that helps with frozen shoulder — also addresses the small adhesions that form in heavily trained muscle. And the post-cupping increase in local circulation appears to accelerate the regeneration of muscle fibres themselves.

For an Olympic athlete training twice a day with sessions a few hours apart, the recovery benefit between sessions is meaningful. For an ordinary person training three times a week, the benefit is smaller but still present. For most clients in our parlour, who are not athletes at all, the benefit is most pronounced in chronic conditions where local circulation has been poor for years. (If you want to understand the marks themselves — why some are pale and some nearly black — I have written about reading the marks in more detail.)

The cultural recovery

What has happened since 2016 is interesting beyond the immediate sports angle. The Olympic exposure created a kind of cultural permission for cupping that had not previously existed in Western cities. People who would not have considered visiting a Chinese-medicine practitioner suddenly felt comfortable asking about cupping. Spa centres in Italy, France, and the UK began offering the technique. The conversation around it shifted from “exotic alternative” to “respected old technique that professionals use.”

In Tirana, that permission arrived with its own small comedy. Clients who would once have raised an eyebrow at the words “Chinese medicine” now arrive having already watched a swimmer’s back on television, ready to discuss it as casually as they would a new café on the Bllok. The endorsement that finally landed was not from a textbook or a practitioner. It was from a man winning a medal in a pool in Rio.

This is part of why I find this work meaningful in a way that has little to do with the technique itself. We are caring for the survival and careful refinement of a practice that has been done by hand for thousands of years — and that, for one strange summer, the whole world suddenly noticed at once.

A small story from the table

About a year ago a man in his late thirties came in for his first cupping session — a recreational runner with a back that had been tightening for a decade of desk work and weekend half-marathons. He had booked, he admitted, mostly because he had seen the marks on athletes and wanted to know what the fuss was about.

After the session, while I was cleaning up, he twisted in front of the mirror to study the row of dark circles across his shoulders, turning like a man trying to read a label sewn into the back of his own collar. He was quiet for a moment.

“I thought I was fine,” he said.

I told him most people do, right up until the skin produces the evidence. He laughed, a little ruefully, and booked a second session before he left. The marks faded within the week. The tightness, by then, had begun to as well.

Trying it for the first time

For a client considering their first cupping session, my honest recommendations are:

Come in expecting to spend about an hour from start to finish, with about thirty minutes of cup time. Plan to wear loose clothing afterwards — the cups leave marks, as I have discussed, and tight collared shirts can rub.

If you have a specific complaint (chronic shoulder tension, recurrent back ache, athletic recovery, recurrent cold sensitivity in winter), tell us at intake. The cupping protocol shifts based on the goal.

If you are anxious about the marks, look at a few photographs online beforehand. The reality is generally less dramatic than the imagination.

If you have any of the standard contraindications — blood-thinning medication, pregnancy, recent surgery, significant skin conditions in the treatment area — tell us at intake. There are usually gentler approaches that can ease the same complaint without the technique that does not suit you.

And if you find yourself, a few days later, explaining the circles on your back to a curious colleague over coffee — you will be in good company. For one summer the entire world had the same conversation, and it has not entirely stopped since.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana. The parlour is in central Tirana, near Bulevardi Gjergj Fishta.

Cold in the Belly: Mud Moxibustion vs. a Heating Pad

A friend of a regular client came in last February asking, slightly embarrassed, about “a treatment my friend talked about for the cold belly.” She had been to a gastroenterologist, a nutritionist, an integrative medicine doctor in Italy, and a private practice in Pristina. She had been told she had irritable bowel syndrome, then mild colitis, then “functional digestive disturbance,” then nothing in particular but “a sensitive system.” She had been on three different elimination diets. She had taken probiotics for fourteen months. She still felt, every winter, as if there was a cold stone sitting low in her abdomen.

“A hot water bottle helps for an hour,” she said. “Then the cold comes back, like a guest who heard there was raki.”

I asked her if she would be willing to try something built for exactly that cold weight in the belly. She agreed.

What the body is saying when the belly is cold

In the language doctors usually use, “the cold belly” is not a category. The complaint, when patients describe it, gets filed under stress, IBS, anxiety, or “no organic finding.” This is not wrong, exactly — there is no tumour, no inflammation on the scan, no infection in the blood work. But it leaves the patient without a useful way of thinking about what they are experiencing.

In Chinese medicine, this presentation is one of the oldest and most clearly described patterns. It is called zhong jiao xuhan — “deficient cold in the middle warmer” — and the descriptions in classical texts (the Shang Han Lun, second century CE) read so close to what these clients describe that the translation is almost comical. The patient feels a cold weight in the lower abdomen. The cold worsens with cold weather, cold drinks, and emotional stress. The bowel movements are loose or alternating. Appetite is variable. There is often fatigue, particularly in the morning, that does not respond to coffee.

The pattern is real. From what I have read, it lines up reasonably well with what modern doctors know about how the nervous system controls blood flow in the digestive organs. The reason the doctors I have met do not always recognise the pattern is that their training organises the symptoms differently, not that the symptoms are imaginary.

Why a heating pad helps for an hour and then stops

The natural instinct, when one’s belly is cold, is to apply heat. A hot water bottle. A heating pad. A warm cloth straight off the radiator. This works. It works because peripheral heat applied to the abdominal wall produces a brief reflex vasodilation in the underlying tissue, the muscles relax, the cramping eases. For the duration of the heat exposure, and for about an hour afterwards, the body feels better.

The reason the effect does not last is that the heat is treating the symptom, not the underlying pattern. The autonomic dysregulation that is causing the chronic cold sensation is not changed by an hour of external warmth. Once the warmth is removed, the system returns to its baseline state. The next afternoon, the belly is cold again.

Mud moxibustion operates differently. It does deliver heat — that is true and important. But it delivers it through a different combination of mechanisms that produce lasting change, not just symptomatic relief.

First, the heat is sustained, deep, and even. Unlike a hot water bottle on the surface of the abdomen, the mud-and-moxa combination raises tissue temperature in the deep abdominal wall and the underlying organs for a sustained forty-five minutes. This is long enough for the autonomic nervous system to register a real change in conditions and begin to update its baseline assumptions about the area.

Second, the herbal compounds in the medicinal mud — particularly the warming herbs Aconitum (used in tiny safe doses), Cinnamomum cassia, Zingiber officinale, and Angelica sinensis — produce specific effects on local circulation and inflammatory signalling that are different from those of pure heat alone.

Third, the smoke from the burning moxa contains volatile compounds that are absorbed through the skin and have measurable systemic effects on parasympathetic tone — the part of the nervous system that governs digestive function. This is the slowest of the three mechanisms and the one that, in my experience, produces the most lasting change. Clients often report that the most noticeable improvements appear two to three days after the session, not during the session itself. (For women whose digestive patterns sit alongside fertility or pregnancy questions, the related piece on Chinese massage in pregnancy and fertility covers a different angle of the same broader picture.)

What the protocol looks like

The protocol I use for chronic cold-belly presentations is straightforward but it asks for patience.

First session: a full intake, including pulse and tongue diagnosis, dietary history, sleep patterns, menstrual history if relevant, history of past abdominal surgery or infection. The treatment itself focuses on the lower abdomen — Qihai (CV-6), Guanyuan (CV-4), Zhongji (CV-3) — points along the conception vessel that correspond to the deep digestive and reproductive organs. The mud is laid in a broad band from just below the navel to just above the pubic bone. Moxa is burned above the mud for forty-five minutes.

Sessions two and three: same anatomical area, sometimes adding the lower back (Mingmen, GV-4, and the kidney shu points on the lower back), depending on whether the cold pattern extends to a sense of low-back coldness or weakness.

Sessions four and five: focusing on integration — making sure the changes are holding, often combined with a brief acupuncture treatment to address any secondary patterns that have emerged.

Most clients come weekly for the first three sessions, then move to a session every two weeks for the next two. By the fifth session, the majority report that their belly no longer feels cold most of the time, that they have stopped needing the hot water bottle in the evening, that their digestion has become more predictable.

The friend who came in from the cold

The client I mentioned at the start of this piece came for five sessions across seven weeks. Her improvement was gradual — not the dramatic immediate change some treatments produce, but the slow, steady kind that you can only see by looking back.

By the third session, her loose stools had largely resolved.

By the fourth session, she had stopped needing a hot water bottle to fall asleep — something she had been doing every night, even in summer, for nearly four years.

By the fifth session, she said something that I have heard from other clients in similar treatment courses, and which I have come to recognise as a marker that the deeper pattern has shifted: she felt, for the first time in years, that she did not have to think about her belly. It had become quiet. It had returned to being a part of her body that simply did its work without complaint.

She comes in now for a maintenance session every two or three months, usually when the season is changing. She does not need it for the cold belly anymore; she comes for the general settling effect, the way one might book a session with a good acupuncturist for the autumn-to-winter transition. The kind of maintenance most of us only ever schedule for the car.

A small note on the evening cup

I have started, with cold-belly clients, to suggest a warm drink in the evening — particularly in winter. A cup of çaj mali does nicely; so does plain hot water with a slice of ginger. The point is simply warmth from the inside, taken slowly, while the mud moxa does its work during the day.

I make no grand claims for the tea. It is a small, sensible habit, the kind of thing that costs nothing and quietly helps — like keeping your socks on in February instead of insisting, against all evidence, that the apartment floor is warm. The body does not need to understand the theory. It just registers that the right kind of warmth has finally arrived.

When to consider it

If you have a chronic, recurrent sense of coldness or discomfort in the lower abdomen that has not responded to standard medical workup and that worsens with cold weather or cold drinks — this is worth considering. If you have painful periods that respond more to warmth than to medication — also worth considering. If you are postpartum and feel as if your body is taking longer than expected to return to itself, particularly with a cold or depleted quality — this is one of the treatments classical Chinese medicine developed specifically for this presentation.

If your symptoms are acute, new, or accompanied by red flag features (fever, blood in the stool, significant weight loss, severe pain), see a doctor first. Chronic functional patterns are where mud moxibustion is most useful; new or alarming symptoms need a different first step.

The work is slow. The change, when it comes, tends to be the kind that stays.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana. The parlour is in central Tirana, by the Lana.

Cold Hands: Circulation, Raynaud’s, and Five Points

There are some clients who come to the parlour in January wearing two pairs of gloves. They take the outer pair off in the waiting area, but they keep the inner pair on until the very last moment, sometimes during the intake conversation. When they finally remove them, their hands are not just cool — they are blueish at the fingertips, mottled across the back of the knuckles, sometimes white at the nail beds. The skin temperature is several degrees below the rest of their body.

This is more common than people realise. About one in eight adults — more women than men, more after the age of forty — has measurably impaired peripheral circulation that makes their hands and feet uncomfortably cold even at room temperatures other people find pleasant. A smaller subset, perhaps one in twenty, has Raynaud’s phenomenon: episodes where the small blood vessels in the fingers spasm in response to cold or stress, cutting off circulation for several minutes at a time, sometimes painfully.

Both groups respond well, in my experience, to a particular kind of TCM intervention. The work is slow — circulation patterns do not change in a single session — but it is reliable. The grandmothers in northern China have been doing some version of it for a very long time, and from what I have read more recently, the way it works lines up reasonably well with what modern doctors know about how the small blood vessels behave.

What is happening in cold hands

Hands and feet are at the end of the circulatory road. They are also the parts of the body the autonomic nervous system is most willing to sacrifice when it perceives a threat. In a cold environment, in a stressed state, or after a long period of poor sleep, the sympathetic nervous system narrows the small arteries in the periphery to preserve core temperature for the vital organs. This is a sensible adaptation. The problem arises when the nervous system gets stuck in the constricted state and does not release it when the threat has passed.

For most people with cold hands, this stuck state has multiple contributors: chronic stress, dietary patterns that produce low-grade inflammation, sometimes a thyroid that is functioning at the lower edge of normal, sometimes — increasingly common since 2022 — a lingering effect of COVID-19 on small blood vessels.

For people with Raynaud’s, the same mechanism is operating in a more extreme form. The vessels do not just narrow — they spasm, often in response to stimuli that would not bother most people (a draught from an open refrigerator, holding a cold drink, mild emotional stress).

The conventional medical approach is, in most cases, to manage symptoms: keep warm, avoid triggers, sometimes vasodilator medications for severe cases. This is reasonable as far as it goes. It does not speak to the underlying nervous-system pattern — the stuck, over-guarded state — which is where, in my experience, acupuncture gently helps the body settle.

Five points for cold hands

The protocol I use for cold-hands clients is built around five points. Not used all at once — the combination shifts based on the individual presentation — but drawn from a core set.

Hegu (LI-4) — in the web between thumb and index finger. The classical “command point” for the hand and face. Needling here produces measurable vasodilation in the hand within ten to fifteen minutes. The effect is local but reliable, and the point has the added benefit of being easy to self-massage between sessions.

Laogong (PC-8) — in the centre of the palm. Translated as “labour palace.” Used in TCM to clear excess heat from the heart channel; from a vascular perspective, it directly affects palmar arterial flow. This is the point I use most often for clients whose cold hands are accompanied by mild anxiety — there is an interesting overlap between hand circulation and emotional state that this point seems to address.

Quchi (LI-11) — at the outer end of the elbow crease. Treats the entire forearm and acts as a relay station for circulation moving outward into the hand. Useful in clients whose poor circulation is part of a wider pattern of cold-type symptoms.

Zusanli (ST-36) — about four finger-widths below the kneecap. Not a hand point, but a foundational point for building underlying qi and warming the whole body. For clients whose cold hands are part of a deeper deficiency — chronic fatigue, low appetite, frequent colds — this point is almost always included.

Mingmen (GV-4) — on the lower back between the second and third lumbar vertebrae. “Gate of life.” A warming point that affects the body’s deep reserve. For severe cases, often combined with moxa (warming the point with the smouldering herb Artemisia vulgaris) rather than only with needling.

A standard protocol uses three or four of these points per session, sometimes alternating between sessions to cover the full range. We rarely use all five at once. (For more on how the body’s meridian map underlies these point choices, I have a longer piece on meridian conditioning that lays out the framework.)

The Liaoning grandmother method

There is something I learned from my own grandmother in Liaoning that is not in any acupuncture textbook, but which I use with cold-hands clients because it works.

She kept a small bowl of warm water on the table, and after meals — particularly in winter — she would place her hands in the bowl for two or three minutes. Not hot water. Warm. Around the temperature of a comfortable bath. The water reached past her wrists. She called it wenshou — warming the hands.

What this does, physiologically, is exactly what it sounds like: it provides a sustained, gentle warmth that allows the small blood vessels to dilate without the rebound vasoconstriction that comes from going abruptly between cold and hot. Cold hands held under hot tap water often feel worse afterwards, because the rapid warming causes a defensive over-reaction. Two minutes in warm water — slowly, with patience — teaches the vessels to relax.

I have recommended this practice to many cold-hands clients in the parlour. It is so unremarkable that some of them think I am joking. They go home, they try it, they come back two weeks later saying it has been the single most useful change they have made.

A word on the Tirana cold

People here are sure their hands will be fine because the radiators are good and the winter is short. A Tirana winter does not care how good your radiator is; the wet cold finds the hands first, on the walk to the car, and keeps them an hour after you are indoors. The warm-water habit is a small daily kindness for fingers that the season treats unkindly.

What to expect from a course of treatment

For ordinary cold hands (without Raynaud’s), a typical course is six to eight weekly sessions, followed by a maintenance session every six to eight weeks through the cold months. Most clients notice clearer improvement by the third or fourth session — hands that warm up faster after coming in from the cold, fewer episodes of needing gloves indoors, an overall reduction in the time spent feeling chilled.

For Raynaud’s specifically, the work is slower and the results are less complete. Realistic expectation: a meaningful reduction in the frequency and severity of episodes, often to the point where they become rare and brief, but not necessarily a full elimination. Clients with primary Raynaud’s (the form without an underlying autoimmune cause) respond better than clients with secondary Raynaud’s (where the cause is something like scleroderma or lupus). Acupuncture should not replace medical monitoring for the autoimmune form, but it can be a useful adjunct that reduces dependence on vasodilator medication.

A particular note for post-COVID circulation problems: these have become common in the parlour. The pattern is usually a relatively young, otherwise healthy adult who developed cold hands or feet after a COVID infection and has not seen them resolve months later. I read once that small blood-vessel changes after COVID are well-known to doctors now and that they sometimes take a long time to settle. In my own practice, acupuncture seems to help in about three cases out of four — slower than for ordinary cold hands, often needing twelve sessions or more — but the hands do come back.

The honest summary

If your hands are cold for no obvious reason, the first thing to do is see a general practitioner to rule out the conditions that mimic poor peripheral circulation: thyroid trouble, anaemia, autoimmune conditions. Once those are excluded — or being treated — acupuncture is one of the better-known traditional approaches for this complaint, and the doctors I have spoken with tend to recognise it as a sensible thing to try. Combined with the warm-water practice the grandmothers knew, daily gentle hand exercises, and (if appropriate for you) certain warming herbs in your diet, the change can be substantial.

You should not expect miracles in the first week. You should expect the hands to start remembering how to be warm by about the fourth week. By the third month, most clients are out of gloves indoors.

The body learns these things back if it is shown how.


Yang Wang practises acupuncture and Tui Na at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana.

Mud Moxibustion: The Quiet Cousin of Acupuncture

There is a treatment we offer at the parlour that almost no one in Tirana has heard of before they walk in. Most of our long-term clients have tried Tui Na. Many have tried acupuncture, cupping, gua sha, hot stones. But mud moxibustion — ni jiu in Mandarin, 泥灸 — they encounter for the first time when they ask about a treatment for chronic abdominal cold, painful periods that nothing else has touched, or the kind of deep tiredness that sleep does not repair.

This is one of the older treatments in the Chinese pharmacopoeia. It is also, in my opinion, one of the most underrated. It does what acupuncture does — moves stuck qi, warms the deep tissue, addresses cold-type patterns — but it does it through a different mechanism, and for certain clients it is dramatically more effective. (For the acupuncture half of this comparison and how the meridian-point system underlying both treatments is mapped, I have a foundational piece on meridian conditioning.)

What it actually is

Mud moxibustion combines two ancient ingredients: medicinal mud and moxa, the herb Artemisia vulgaris (mugwort, in English; pelin in Albanian, where the plant grows wild on the hillsides outside Tirana — you have probably walked past it a hundred times on a Sunday hike without a second glance).

The mud is not ordinary mud. It is a specific medicinal preparation, traditionally made from a base of fine silt taken from particular river beds, mixed with powdered herbs — typically Artemisia, Angelica sinensis, Cinnamomum cassia (cinnamon bark), and several other warming herbs depending on the formula. The mixture is dried and stored in cakes or sheets. To use it, the practitioner moistens it slightly, warms it to body temperature, and applies it as a layer over a specific area of the body — usually the lower abdomen, the lower back, or along the spine.

Over the layer of warmed mud, a small amount of moxa is burned at a controlled distance. The smoke and heat penetrate down through the mud, which acts as a carrier and a temperature regulator. The result is a deep, even, sustained warming of the underlying tissue and the points beneath it, combined with the topical absorption of the herbal compounds in the mud.

A session lasts thirty to forty-five minutes. The client lies comfortably on the table. The sensation is unlike anything else in TCM — not the brief sharpness of a needle, not the dull pressure of cupping, not the focused heat of a single stone. It is broad, warm, slow, settling. Many clients fall asleep during the second half of the session.

What it helps with — and what it does not

Mud moxibustion is specifically indicated for what TCM calls cold-damp accumulation in the lower body. This is a pattern more than a single condition, but in the people I see it tends to show up as:

Chronic abdominal cold — the sensation of a persistently cool lower belly, often with bloating, sluggish digestion, and frequent loose stools. Many women describe this as feeling “as if my insides are cold from the inside out.”

Painful menstrual periods — particularly the kind that come with low-back ache, cold sensitivity, and pain that responds better to heat than to pain medication.

Chronic lower back pain that worsens in cold weather. Not the acute strain kind; the kind that comes back every winter and lasts until April.

Postpartum recovery, especially for women who feel cold and depleted after giving birth (something Chinese medicine takes very seriously and works with actively, while in the modern medical setting it often gets less attention than it deserves).

Chronic fatigue with a “cold and damp” quality — heavy limbs, low motivation, a body that feels weighed down rather than tense.

It is not the right treatment for: acute injuries, fevers, infections, conditions with a “heat” pattern (red face, easily irritable, dry mouth, insomnia from agitation), or pregnancy (heating the abdomen during pregnancy is contraindicated in classical practice).

A small story about my mother

When I was a child in Liaoning, my mother had what we then called “the winter belly.” Every December, around the time the first snow came, her lower abdomen would become tender and cold to the touch. Cramping that came not with her period but seemingly with the season. She drank ginger tea. She wore extra layers. She felt, in her own words, that her yang was leaking out of her like heat from a poorly built house.

Once a winter, my grandmother would prepare what she called the “mud cake.” She made it herself, from a recipe handed down through several generations. River silt, dried mugwort from the summer harvest, cinnamon bark, ginger, two or three other things I never learned the names of. She would warm the cake on the stove, lay it across my mother’s abdomen, and burn a small bundle of moxa above it for half an hour.

My mother would emerge from this treatment looking like she had taken a long bath in a warm sea. Calm, slightly flushed, the cold gone out of her face. The treatment was an annual event. It always worked.

I did not understand, at the time, that I was watching a thousand-year-old protocol being performed in my grandmother’s kitchen. To me it was just what we did in December.

Why the Western reader rarely encounters this

There are two reasons mud moxibustion has remained obscure outside China, even as acupuncture and cupping have become familiar in European wellness centres.

The first is practical. The mud is difficult to source authentically outside China. The herbal formula is complex and the quality varies considerably. We import ours from a specific manufacturer in Shandong province with multi-generational expertise in the preparation. Many Western practitioners who have heard of the technique substitute generic clay or skip the treatment entirely. The result is, predictably, disappointing, and the technique gets a reputation it does not deserve.

The second is cultural. The treatment is messy, slightly slow, and aesthetically far from the polished image many Western wellness centres want to project. It does not photograph well for Instagram. The mud stains the towels. There is a small amount of smoke from the moxa. Some practitioners who specialise in “clean” modern TCM avoid it precisely because of these unglamorous practicalities.

We do it because it works, and because we have not yet found a substitute that does the same thing.

A few things I have found interesting along the way

When I started looking into the modern explanations of how this treatment works, I came across a few things that I found interesting to share. The smoke from the burning moxa carries small aromatic compounds — the same kinds of compounds that give certain medicinal plants their smell — and these are absorbed through the skin during the session. The mud itself, more than anything else, holds the heat steady at a temperature that the skin would not tolerate from the moxa directly. The three together — heat, smoke, and herb — do something none of them does alone.

For painful menstrual periods especially, I have read that there are studies showing the treatment reduces the pain meaningfully, sometimes more than over-the-counter pain medicine, and that the relief continues into the next cycle without further treatment. I do not pretend to know the studies in detail. What I know is what I see in the parlour, which lines up reasonably well with what I have read.

For chronic digestive discomfort — what Chinese medicine calls a tired or cold “middle warmer,” and what Western medicine often calls IBS or “functional” digestive issues — there is, from what I gather, a similar picture. The body responds; the mechanism is not fully mapped; the practitioners who do the work consistently see results.

When it is the right answer

I do not recommend mud moxibustion as a first treatment for most complaints. For an acute problem, acupuncture or Tui Na is usually faster. For ordinary stress and muscle tension, a relaxation massage is more straightforward.

Mud moxibustion is the right answer when:

The complaint is chronic, has resisted other approaches, and has a clear “cold” quality. The client feels the affected area is cold to their own touch, the pain is worse in winter or with cold exposure, and they instinctively reach for hot water bottles or heating pads.

The complaint involves the lower abdomen or lower back, where the deep penetrating warmth of the mud-moxa combination reaches better than any other modality.

The client has the patience for a slow treatment. This is not a single-session fix. A typical course is three to five sessions, once a week or every two weeks. Improvement is usually noticed by the third session.

The first session feels, to most clients, like a deep rest in a warm place — almost meditative. The therapeutic effect builds in the days afterwards, often most strongly in the second and third night of sleep following the treatment.

It is one of the oldest tools we have. It is also, when used in the right pattern, one of the most effective. That is why it has survived for as long as it has, in spite of everything that has changed around it.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana.

Volcanic Stone Therapy in Winter — Why Tirana’s Cold Snap

Tirana in January is colder than tourists expect. The city sits in a basin, and when the winds come down from Dajti in late afternoon, the temperature in the streets can drop several degrees in an hour. The wet cold that comes with the rain has a specific quality — it does not freeze the body the way the dry Liaoning winter of my childhood did, but it gets into the joints in a way that the dry cold did not. Long-term residents recognise it. New arrivals are usually surprised.

In our parlour, January and February are the two months when volcanic stone therapy bookings outpace everything else. It is not a coincidence. The treatment is specifically suited to the kind of chronic cold-pattern complaint that the Tirana winter produces, and the change clients experience after a session — and the cumulative change after several sessions — is more pronounced in winter than in any other season.

This piece is for the clients who come in with the specific complaint of “the cold has gotten into my bones” and want to know why the stones help when the heating pad at home does not.

What “cold in the bones” actually is

The phrase “cold in the bones” — acari në kocka, in Albanian — is one of the more linguistically accurate descriptions of a physiological state that modern medicine does not have a comparably elegant term for.

When the body is exposed to chronic cold and damp conditions, several things happen at the level of the joints, deep muscles, and connective tissue.

The synovial fluid in the joints becomes slightly more viscous. The fluid that lubricates the joint is sensitive to temperature; at lower temperatures, it flows less smoothly. This is part of why arthritic joints stiffen in cold weather.

The fascia surrounding the muscles loses some of its hydration and elasticity. Cold reduces local blood flow, which reduces the delivery of water and nutrients to the connective tissue. Over weeks of cold exposure, the fascia becomes detectably less pliable.

The deep paraspinal muscles, particularly those around the lower back and the back of the neck, enter a low-grade chronic contraction state. The contraction is protective — it preserves core temperature — but it accumulates tension over the winter.

The peripheral circulation, particularly in the hands and feet, becomes restricted. Even when the person is in a warm room, the small blood vessels in the periphery remain narrowed for some time after the cold exposure has ended.

All of these effects, in combination, produce the sensation of cold having “gotten into” the body in a way that no single warm shower can fully resolve. The body has shifted its baseline. Restoring the previous baseline takes more than transient warmth.

What the stones do that a heating pad does not

The instinct, when one has cold in the bones, is to apply heat. A hot bath, a heating pad on the lower back, an electric blanket overnight. These help. They help temporarily.

The therapeutic difference between this kind of surface heat and a volcanic stone session lies in three factors.

Depth of heat penetration. A hot bath warms the body’s surface and, over time, raises the core temperature slightly. A heating pad warms the area directly under it but the heat does not penetrate more than a centimetre or two into the tissue. Volcanic basalt, applied at the correct temperature (between 55 and 65 degrees Celsius) and moved correctly across the body, transfers heat to a depth of five to seven centimetres — reaching the deep paraspinal muscles, the deep hip rotators, the small muscles around the kidneys, and the periarticular tissues around the joints in a way that surface heat cannot.

Sustained working temperature. A heating pad cools as it transfers heat into the body and tends to be set at temperatures too high to be safe for prolonged contact (which is why most have automatic shut-offs). The basalt stones we use stay within the therapeutic range for fifteen to twenty minutes per stone, and we rotate through multiple stones to maintain even working temperature for the full session. The deep tissue receives sustained warming input rather than the rapid hot-cold-hot cycling of an electric pad.

Mechanical work combined with heat. The stones are not only static. A skilled volcanic stone session combines stationary placement (where stones rest on key points for several minutes) with active manipulation (where the stones glide along muscle groups and joint capsules). The combination of heat plus mechanical work addresses both the temperature and the postural-tension components of winter stiffness simultaneously. (For the foundational long-form guide to this technique — origin, variations, contraindications — see the volcanic stone massage guide.)

The Tirana protocol specifically

The volcanic stone work I do in winter differs in specific ways from the protocol used in summer or in other climates. The Tirana-specific adjustments include:

Longer pre-warming of the client. The client lies on a heated table for five to ten minutes before any stone is applied. This raises the surface temperature of the body so the first stone does not produce a startling temperature contrast that recruits the sympathetic nervous system.

More attention to the lumbar region. The lower back is where the wet-cold quality of the Tirana winter accumulates most consistently. We use a larger sacral stone for this region, and the stationary placement time is extended compared to the standard protocol.

Specific work on the hips and outer thighs. The lateral fascia from the iliotibial band to the outer hip becomes particularly tight in winter, and clients often do not notice this tightness until it is released. Stone work along this region in winter consistently produces a “lighter” sensation in walking afterwards.

Attention to the small joints of the hands. Tirana winter cold particularly affects the hands of people who spend time outdoors — walking dogs along Liqeni, commuting on foot, taking children to school. Small stones placed between the fingers and worked along the back of the hand produce significant relief.

Finishing with abdominal stones. Even when the primary complaint is musculoskeletal, finishing with stationary stones on the lower abdomen produces a general systemic warming effect that improves the overall therapeutic outcome.

What a typical winter client looks like

A representative client, from this past January: a woman in her late fifties, retired teacher, lives in a flat in central Tirana with adequate but not generous heating. She walks her grandson to school each morning. She has had mild osteoarthritis in her knees for several years that is generally manageable but flares up in winter to the point where she cannot kneel on the floor to play with the child. She had tried heating pads, knee braces, a magnesium supplement, and one course of physiotherapy that had not produced a substantial change.

She came in for a single ninety-minute volcanic stone session in early January. The protocol was the full winter version described above, with particular attention to the periarticular tissues of the knees.

She called the next day to say that she had slept through the night for the first time in three weeks and had been able to kneel that morning without pain.

This is, by itself, not a study. It is an anecdote. But it is a representative anecdote — the kind of report we hear consistently from winter clients with cold-pattern complaints. The single session produces noticeable improvement; the cumulative effect of several sessions across the winter produces something closer to the body’s normal baseline.

She continued coming once every two weeks through February and into early March. By the time she stopped (in part because the weather had warmed and her knees had stabilised), she had had six sessions across two months. Her knees stayed stable through the rest of the winter and the following spring.

The Liaoning observation

I cannot help observing, when I do this work in winter, the parallel with what my own family did in Liaoning when I was a child. We did not have basalt stones in our village. We had pieces of broken brick from old kilns, smoothed by time, that my grandmother kept in a wooden box near the stove. In the deepest weeks of January she would warm a stone in the stove embers (carefully — too hot would crack it), wrap it in cloth, and apply it to her own lower back or to my mother’s knees.

The principle was identical. The materials were what was locally available. The pattern — warm stone, applied to the lower back or joints, in the deep cold of winter — has been performed in some form in every cold-climate culture that has had access to dense stone and a way to heat it. The fact that we now do it in our parlour in Tirana with carefully sourced basalt and properly heated water does not change the underlying intervention. We have refined the precision; we have not changed the wisdom.

When to consider it, when not to

Volcanic stone therapy in winter is particularly useful for:

Chronic joint stiffness that worsens in cold weather (arthritis of the knees, hips, shoulders, fingers).

Lower back pain with a “cold and damp” quality — pain that responds to heat and worsens in damp weather.

Persistent cold extremities (cold hands, cold feet) that are not improving with the usual measures.

General fatigue and “the cold has gotten into me” feeling that does not lift with adequate sleep and warm clothing.

It is less useful for, or contraindicated in, the conditions listed in the main volcanic stone guide on the parlour website — particularly pregnancy, acute infection, uncontrolled cardiovascular disease, blood-thinning medication, and active DVT.

For winter use specifically, a series of three to six sessions across the cold months produces the most reliable lasting effect. A single session helps for one to two weeks; the cumulative effect builds over the series and produces a body that handles the winter more comfortably overall.

The treatment is, in its way, one of the older interventions for living in a cold climate — warm stone, patient hands, repeated through the worst of the season. In a Tirana January, when the cold comes down off Dajti and settles into the basin for weeks, this is not a small thing.


Yang Wang practises Chinese medicine at Chinese Massage – Tai Chi Tirana.